Cartier

Today, Cartier is an industry giant, retailing some of the most famous and recognisable watch designs in the world. However, when compared to the Cartier of the mid-twentieth century, vast differences can be found. In the past, the brand operated with far more independence, and this is very evident in the designs stemming from the period. Each department operated, for all intents and purposes, of their own accord. Thus, while Paris and New York elevated their stature in the world of luxury, producing the elegant and refined products which are synonymous with modern Cartier, the London workshop stood out.

Helmed by fourth generation family member and visionary genius Jean-Jacques Cartier, the London branch became increasingly bold and experimental. Together with famed designer Rupert Emmerson, Jean-Jacques and his team would go on to push the boundaries of contemporary watch architecture, manufacturing larger and progressively more unconventionally shaped cases. The period generated truly important designs, such as the Oblique (more commonly referred to as the Asymétrique), the Lozenge, and the Pebble. At the time, their products were only really embraced by the Art Deco audience of the ‘Swinging Sixties’, hence only small batches of London creations were made, with secondary market prices staying stable throughout the remainder of the century, all the way into the 2010s. However, as modern tastes shift towards eccentric and shaped watches, Cartier London’s designs have proven to be some of the most sought-after in the brand’s entire history.

The Crash is perhaps Cartier London’s most famous creation. Several tales, all of dubious origin, speculate as to the genesis of the design. Some say that a Cartier Baignoire wristwatch became badly damaged in a car crash, and watchmakers found the mangled case shape to be so aesthetically interesting that instead of trying to fix it, they took a cast of it instead to create a new model line. Others claim that inspiration was directly drawn from Salvador Dalí’s landmark surrealist artworks containing melting clocks. Though none of these accounts can be verified, the widespread speculation and adoration speak to the enduring mystique behind the design, as well as its cultural relevance today.

Original Crash models were produced in incredibly small quantities, and it is estimated that only a dozen London Crash watches exist today, and by 1964 Cartier London had been sold outside the family. However, this did not mark the end of the model line. Two more series of the Crash would be produced by Cartier Paris, with the present example belonging to the latter made in 1991, in a very limited run of only 400 pieces. This is an unmissable opportunity for any serious collector to own a wonderfully preserved example of Cartier’s most coveted wristwatch. This watch does not only represent the best of Cartier, it is testament to the experimental and innovative spirit of the London workshop, cementing their legacy forever.