Cartier Watches: Exploring the Use of Diamonds

Cartier holds a rich and storied legacy in both high watchmaking and fine jewelry. The maison seamlessly blends these two realms to create exquisite diamond-set timepieces that epitomize sophistication and craftsmanship. From historically significant designs to modern masterpieces, Cartier continues to push the boundaries of luxury watchmaking. Here, we explore a selection of remarkable diamond Cartier watches that have captivated collectors at Sotheby’s auctions.

The History of Diamond Cartier Watches

Cartier first introduced diamonds into its watches in the 1920s, marking a significant milestone in the brand’s evolution. Among the earliest examples was the Cartier Tutti Frutti watch, which combined diamonds with vibrant carved sapphires, emeralds, and rubies, all set in platinum. This innovation carried into the Art Deco era, where Cartier adorned its now-iconic Cartier Tank with diamonds, harmonizing the watch’s sleek, geometric design with the brilliance of precious stones.

As decades passed, Cartier expanded its collection of diamond-set timepieces, maintaining a balance between artistry and technical excellence. Today, these watches remain highly coveted, not only for their inherent value but also for their embodiment of Cartier’s dual heritage as a preeminent jeweler and master watchmaker.

Cartier Panthere Diamond — Cartier Panthére Reference 315AF

Cartier Panthére Reference 315AF Circa 2011, 2,772,000 HKD

This Cartier Panthère Reference 315AF sold for 2,772,000 HKD in April 2022. The Panthère, a signature motif of Cartier, has long been celebrated for its bold yet elegant design. This particular piece presented a rare interpretation of the theme, integrating a watch within a striking bangle-style bracelet.

Exquisitely crafted, the panther was sculpted in a resting posture, its tail elegantly wrapping around the wrist as though poised for its next move. The feline was entirely pavé-set with dazzling diamonds, further enhanced by sapphire spots and emerald accents on the watch dial. The careful placement of colored gemstones created a mesmerizing contrast, bringing the panther to life. This watch was designed for effortless wear, featuring a reliable quartz movement that required no winding. The combination of technical ingenuity and extraordinary craftsmanship made this Cartier Panthère a highlight among collectors and a testament to Cartier’s watchmaking excellence.

Cartier Crash Reference 2463

Cartier Crash Reference 2463 Circa 2001, 1,079,500 HKD

The Cartier Crash is one of the most distinctive and avant-garde designs in Cartier’s catalog. Introduced in 1967, its surreal, melted appearance is rumored to have been inspired by a damaged Cartier Baignoire Allongée that was involved in a car accident. This unconventional aesthetic makes the Crash one of Cartier’s most sought-after timepieces.

This Cartier Crash Reference 2463 sold for 1,079,500 HKD in October 2023 during Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Hong Kong. Over the years, Cartier has released limited reissues of this legendary design, but diamond-encrusted variations remain exceptionally rare. This particular model, featuring pink diamonds, generated immense interest among collectors, further cementing its status as an icon of artistic watchmaking.

Cartier Ballon Bleu Reference 3271

Cartier Ballon Bleu Reference 3271 Circa 2011, 330,200 HKD

Introduced in 2007, the Cartier Ballon Bleu has quickly risen to prominence as a modern classic. Recognized for its smooth, rounded case and distinctive sapphire cabochon crown, the Ballon Bleu embodies Cartier’s signature elegance with a contemporary touch.

This diamond-set Cartier Ballon Bleu, which sold for 330,200 HKD in April 2023, elevated the watch’s already refined design to new levels of luxury. Adorned with diamonds across the case, dial, and bracelet, it seamlessly blurred the lines between fine watchmaking and high jewelry. The radiant sparkle of the diamonds accentuated the watch’s gentle curves, making it an irresistible piece for collectors at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Hong Kong.

Cartier Baignoire Reference 3033

Cartier Baignoire Reference 3033 Circa 2012, 254,000 HKD

The Cartier Baignoire, first introduced in 1912, is a timeless symbol of femininity and grace. Named after its elongated oval shape reminiscent of a bathtub, the Baignoire is cherished for its unique design that gracefully hugs the wrist. When set with diamonds, its vintage-inspired aesthetic is further elevated, exuding old-world charm and sophistication.

This pink gold and diamond-set Cartier Baignoire sold for 254,000 HKD in April 2023. Featuring a diamond-set case and crown, the watch’s contours were elegantly accentuated, making it a coveted accessory for formal occasions. Its timeless beauty and impeccable craftsmanship secured its place among Cartier’s most beloved designs.

Cartier Diamond Tank Americaine

Cartier, Diamond Tank Americaine, 25,000 GBP

The Cartier Tank is arguably the most iconic timepiece in Cartier’s collection. Originally launched in 1917, its rectangular case and clean, linear design were inspired by the Renault tanks used during World War I. Over the years, the Tank has undergone numerous evolutions, yet it has always maintained its reputation for understated elegance.

This diamond-set Cartier Tank Américaine, sold for 25,000 GBP during Sotheby’s Fine Jewels sale in London in June 2020, exemplified the seamless fusion of horology and high jewelry. With an initial estimate of 8,000 – 10,000 GBP, the final sale price far exceeded expectations, a testament to the watch’s desirability. Featuring a diamond-encrusted bezel and bracelet, this timepiece radiated opulence while preserving Cartier’s signature refinement. Even the deployant clasp was adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds, ensuring that no detail was overlooked.

Diamond Cartier watches are far more than just luxurious accessories; they are masterpieces of design and craftsmanship that reflect the maison’s unparalleled expertise in both watchmaking and fine jewelry. From the whimsical elegance of the Panthère to the surreal allure of the Crash, each of these extraordinary timepieces tells a story of artistry and innovation. As seen in these remarkable auction results, Cartier’s diamond watches continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts, affirming their status as timeless symbols of sophistication and prestige.

Advantages to Buying Cartier Watches on the Secondary Market

1. Access

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Cartier watches from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers exceptional Cartier timepieces, from iconic classics to rare references. Our watch specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Cartier watch models from collectors around the world.

2. Flexibility

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Cartier watches, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Cartier watch models not available online.

3. Value

While authorized Cartier boutiques offer their latest collections, finding specific models—especially those with strong collector demand—can be challenging due to availability constraints. Sotheby’s presents a curated selection of Cartier watches, including rare and discontinued references, available for purchase without the need to visit multiple retailers. Shopping with Sotheby’s ensures access to exceptional Cartier timepieces, from vintage icons to modern grail watches, all authenticated by experts.

4. Discovery

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, limited-production Cartier watches no longer available at retail. Our curated selection of Cartier watches is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Buy and Sell Diamond Cartier Watches at Sotheby's

Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of the finest Cartier watches available for immediate purchase, as well as through auctions held in New York, Paris, Zurich, and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Cartier models in every sale, including iconic pieces like the Cartier Tank, Santos, Panthère, and more in exceptional condition. Sotheby’s auctions feature an array of Cartier timepieces, ranging from elegant vintage models to contemporary masterpieces, showcasing the brand’s unmatched craftsmanship and innovation.

Prices for Cartier watches start around $14,000 for models like the Cartier Santos and rise significantly for highly sought-after pieces. Iconic models such as the Ballon Bleu and Cartier Tortue often command starting prices of around $25,000, while rare collectible editions can exceed $200,000.

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