The Cartier Santos: Exploring Diamond Models from the Sotheby's Archive

The Cartier Santos is one of the most iconic timepieces in watchmaking history. First created in 1904 for the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the watch was designed to provide him with a practical and stylish alternative to traditional pocket watches. With its distinctive square case, exposed screws, and refined elegance, the Santos has remained a staple of Cartier's watch collections for over a century. Over the years, the Maison has introduced various iterations of the model, incorporating high-complication movements, precious metals, and intricate diamond settings. Sotheby’s, with its global network of Cartier specialists, has had the privilege of bringing some of the most remarkable Cartier Santos models to auction. In this guide, we explore five exceptional examples from the Sotheby’s archive, each demonstrating the fusion of craftsmanship and innovation that defines the Cartier Santos.

This Cartier Santos 100 Flying Tourbillon Reference 3231 was sold for 437,500 HKD at Sotheby's Important Watches sale in April 2019. This model showcases Cartier’s ability to integrate complex watchmaking techniques with luxurious design.

Released circa 2010, this Cartier Santos is distinguished by its flying tourbillon mechanism, first introduced by the Maison in 2008 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH, now Watches and Wonders). Unlike a traditional tourbillon, the flying tourbillon is anchored by a single bridge, creating the illusion of unencumbered rotation every 60 seconds. The visual spectacle of this movement is complemented by the watch’s 18k white gold case, adorned with 51 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Measuring 41mm, the timepiece is completed by a sophisticated black alligator strap, offering both elegance and comfort.

This Cartier Santos model attracted strong collector interest, making it one of the most expensive Santos watches ever sold by Sotheby’s.

This Cartier Santos 100 Mystérieuse sold for 40,000 USD when it was brought to auction in December 2019. Part of a limited series of just 10 pieces, this watch is a striking example of Cartier’s technical ingenuity and artistic mastery.

Encased in palladium and set with approximately 6.8 carats of diamonds, the watch’s most captivating feature is its mystery aperture. The floating hands appear to defy gravity, moving independently within a transparent dial. This illusion is made possible by sapphire crystal discs, which hold the hands in place without any visible connection to the movement. The concept of the “mystery” display originates from Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a renowned French magician and clockmaker who created the first Mystery Clock in 1913. By incorporating this innovative design into the Santos collection, Cartier continues its legacy of blending horology with enchantment.

This Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2879 was sold for 81,250 HKD in May 2020. Dating from circa 2017, this automatic model combines traditional elements with contemporary aesthetics.

Housed in a pink gold case, the watch features a bezel set with pavé diamonds, adding a touch of opulence to the Santos’ bold design. The silvered dial, with its signature pink gold Roman numerals, remains true to Cartier’s distinctive design language. A white rubber strap completes the modern, sporty look, proving that Cartier can seamlessly blend elegance with versatility.

This Cartier Santos Demoiselle sold for 9,450 USD in Sotheby’s June 2021 Fine Watches sale. This is a refined ladies’ timepiece that embodies Cartier’s commitment to craftsmanship and luxury.

Crafted in 18k yellow gold, this elegant watch features a diamond-set square bezel and a classic Roman numeral silvered dial. Introduced in 2008, the Demoiselle collection was designed as a tribute to Cartier’s legacy of creating exquisite timepieces for women. Named after Alberto Santos-Dumont’s light aircraft, the Santos Demoiselle reflects the same spirit of innovation and sophistication that has defined the collection for over a century.

This Cartier Santos 100 Reference 2880 sold for 11,875 CHF in March 2020. This timepiece stands out as a bold and confident expression of the Santos’ enduring appeal. Released in 2010, this model embraces Cartier’s signature design elements while elevating them with luxurious details.

The yellow gold case enhances the watch’s striking presence, while its sporty proportions add a modern edge. The bezel, meticulously set with diamonds, demonstrates Cartier’s expertise in high-end watch embellishment. Retaining the signature Roman numeral dial and central minute track, this model stays true to the timeless aesthetic that has made the Santos collection so beloved among collectors.

The Cartier Santos has evolved significantly since its creation in 1904, consistently embracing innovation while staying true to its roots. From the groundbreaking flying tourbillon to the enchanting mystery movement, these five exceptional models from the Sotheby’s archive showcase the diversity and sophistication of the collection. Whether adorned with diamonds, crafted from precious metals, or featuring unique horological complications, each Cartier Santos tells a story of artistry and excellence. As these timepieces continue to captivate collectors worldwide, the enduring legacy of the Santos remains a testament to Cartier’s unrivaled craftsmanship and visionary design.

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Cartier watches from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers exceptional Cartier timepieces, from iconic classics to rare references. Our watch specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Cartier watch models from collectors around the world.

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Cartier watches, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Cartier watch models not available online.

While authorized Cartier boutiques offer their latest collections, finding specific models—especially those with strong collector demand—can be challenging due to availability constraints. Sotheby’s presents a curated selection of Cartier watches, including rare and discontinued references, available for purchase without the need to visit multiple retailers. Shopping with Sotheby’s ensures access to exceptional Cartier timepieces, from vintage icons to modern grail watches, all authenticated by experts.

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, limited-production Cartier watches no longer available at retail. Our curated selection of Cartier watches is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of the finest Cartier watches available for immediate purchase, as well as through auctions held in New York, Paris, Zurich, and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Cartier models in every sale, including iconic pieces like the Cartier Tank, Santos, Panthère, and more in exceptional condition. Sotheby’s auctions feature an array of Cartier timepieces, ranging from elegant vintage models to contemporary masterpieces, showcasing the brand’s unmatched craftsmanship and innovation.

Prices for Cartier watches start around $14,000 for models like the Cartier Santos and rise significantly for highly sought-after pieces. Iconic models such as the Ballon Bleu and Cartier Tortue often command starting prices of around $25,000, while rare collectible editions can exceed $200,000.

• Explore upcoming watch auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
• Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
• Contact a Watch Specialist about selling a Cartier Santos watch.

Trust our worldwide network of leading watch specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.