The Cartier Tank: Five Diamond Designs from the Sotheby’s Archive

The Cartier Tank: Five Diamond Designs from the Sotheby’s Archive

Discover five exceptional diamond-set Cartier Tank watches from the Sotheby’s archive, showcasing the enduring allure of this iconic design.

First introduced in 1917 and officially released in 1919, the Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs in history. Inspired by the shape of World War I military tanks, Louis Cartier created a timepiece that embodied clean lines, timeless elegance, and innovative craftsmanship. Over the decades, the Tank has been reinterpreted in various forms, yet its core identity remains unchanged. While the classic versions in steel or gold remain highly sought after, Cartier has also produced exquisite diamond-set editions that elevate the Tank’s refined aesthetic into the realm of high jewelry. In this guide, we explore five remarkable diamond-set Cartier Tank models that have graced the Sotheby’s auction archive, demonstrating the maison’s unparalleled expertise in both watchmaking and jewelry.

Cartier Tank Diamond Americaine

Cartier Tank Diamond Americaine, 27,720 USD

This Cartier Tank Diamond Americaine sold for 27,720 USD in December 2022. The Tank Americaine, first introduced in 1989, draws inspiration from the elongated and curved case of the Tank Cintrée, offering a contemporary take on a classic design.

This particular piece featured an engine-turned rectangular dial with Roman numeral markers, encased within a bezel and bracelet set with round diamonds. The crown, accented with a reverse-set round diamond, further enhanced the watch’s opulence. In total, this breathtaking timepiece boasted approximately 7 carats of diamonds, making it a dazzling interpretation of the Tank Americaine.

Cartier Montre Bracelet de Dame

Cartier Montre Bracelet de Dame, 16,380 EUR

This Cartier Montre Bracelet de Dame sold for 16,380 EUR in September 2022. The model exemplifies Cartier’s ability to merge fine watchmaking with exquisite jewelry design. This quartz-powered Tank model featured a refined 35 x 22 mm gold case, adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds that accentuated its sophisticated silhouette.

A silvered guilloché dial, framed by a diamond-set crown, maintained the traditional Cartier aesthetic, while the integrated gold bracelet, set with additional diamonds, reinforced the maison’s dedication to luxurious craftsmanship. This timepiece seamlessly combined elegance and functionality, making it a prized addition to any collection.

Cartier Tank Reference 828006

Cartier Tank Reference 828006 Circa 1990, 15,240 CHF

This Cartier Tank Reference 828006 sold for 15,240 CHF in May 2024. This model from circa 1990 highlights the maison’s expertise in blending exceptional watchmaking with fine jewelry. Featuring an 18k yellow gold case adorned with both diamonds and rubies, this piece created a striking contrast against its silvered dial.

The integrated bracelet, also crafted in yellow gold, was further enhanced with a unique combination of diamond and pearl settings, making it a true statement piece. Featured in the Important Watches sale in New York, this quartz-powered Cartier Tank was an exquisite fusion of artistry and precision.

Cartier Montre Bracelet de Dame

Cartier Tank Americaine, 13,970 EUR

Sold in March 2024 for 13,970 EUR, this Cartier Tank Americaine was accompanied by a matching bracelet and a pair of hoop earrings, both featuring brick-link designs adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds. This set exemplified Cartier’s expertise in seamlessly integrating watchmaking and fine jewelry.

The watch itself showcased a rectangular case partially set with brilliant-cut diamonds, maintaining the signature Cartier aesthetic with its silvered dial and Roman numerals. The diamond-set crown added an extra touch of glamour, while the gold double folding clasp bracelet ensured both security and refined style.

Cartier Tank Reference 78227

Cartier Tank Reference 78227 Circa 2000, 13,200 USD

This Cartier Tank Reference 78227 was sold for 13,200 USD in June 2024. Crafted in 18k yellow gold, this timepiece (28 x 21 mm) featured an artistic combination of diamonds and rubies, adding a vibrant touch to the traditional Tank silhouette.

Paired with a bold blue leather strap, this model stood out among the 12 Cartier watches featured in the June 2024 Important Watches sale in New York. Its colorful and daring aesthetic demonstrated Cartier’s ability to push creative boundaries while maintaining the elegance that defines the Tank collection.

Sotheby’s has had the privilege of offering countless Cartier timepieces that embody the maison’s dedication to both fine watchmaking and high jewelry. The diamond-set Cartier Tank watches featured in this selection are exceptional examples of how Cartier has elevated an already iconic design with the brilliance of diamonds, rubies, and pearls. Each piece represents a perfect balance of innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance, proving that the Cartier Tank remains not only a historical masterpiece but also a symbol of enduring sophistication.

Advantages to Buying Cartier Watches on the Secondary Market

1. Access

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Cartier watches from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers exceptional Cartier timepieces, from iconic classics to rare references. Our watch specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Cartier watch models from collectors around the world.

2. Flexibility

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Cartier watches, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Cartier watch models not available online.

3. Value

While authorized Cartier boutiques offer their latest collections, finding specific models—especially those with strong collector demand—can be challenging due to availability constraints. Sotheby’s presents a curated selection of Cartier watches, including rare and discontinued references, available for purchase without the need to visit multiple retailers. Shopping with Sotheby’s ensures access to exceptional Cartier timepieces, from vintage icons to modern grail watches, all authenticated by experts.

4. Discovery

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, limited-production Cartier watches no longer available at retail. Our curated selection of Cartier watches is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Buy and Sell Cartier Tank Watches at Sotheby's

Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of the finest Cartier watches available for immediate purchase, as well as through auctions held in New York, Paris, Zurich, and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Cartier models in every sale, including iconic pieces like the Cartier Tank, Santos, Panthère, and more in exceptional condition. Sotheby’s auctions feature an array of Cartier timepieces, ranging from elegant vintage models to contemporary masterpieces, showcasing the brand’s unmatched craftsmanship and innovation.

Prices for Cartier watches start around $14,000 for models like the Cartier Santos and rise significantly for highly sought-after pieces. Iconic models such as the Ballon Bleu and Cartier Tortue often command starting prices of around $25,000, while rare collectible editions can exceed $200,000.

Trust our worldwide network of leading watch specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.

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